The oldest watchmaker in the world stays on top by constantly innovating

One of the great pleasures in life is traveling. The opportunity to see distant lands, experience new foods and drinks, sample exotic cultures, and meet local citizens is always rewarding. One of my most treasured experiences when I visit any new land is sampling local produce, manufactured goods, and learning about local industry and commerce.

When I visit Geneva, Switzerland, I enjoy the opportunity to shop, research and be amazed by the fabulous artisan craftsmanship of exclusive watchmaking found in the city’s endless jewelry workshops. The city of Geneva is the center of Swiss watchmaking and the array of incredibly stylish and technologically advanced brands, models and watches on display is the best experience to see old world craftsmanship in contemporary times. One of my reactions to seeing the feast of watchmaking on display in Geneva is always this: who buys all these watch styles, from dozens of limited production houses, at such impressive prices?

Obviously, the international demand for exclusive custom designed watches is huge and growing. Rolex, Piaget, Chopard, Audemars Piquet and dozens of other centuries-old exclusive watchmakers are based in Geneva. The oldest, and in many ways the most exclusive, is Vacheron Constantin. This venerable house offers a prime example of how an old brand stays ahead of the competition, continues to reinvent itself and thrive through constant innovation.

Vacheron Constantin was founded in 1755 by Jean-Jacques Vacheron. Mr. Vacheron was an excellent jeweler and watchmaker, as well as a progressive businessman. In 1770, his new company created the first “complication” and several years later, Mr. Vacheron invented and installed the novel “motor-turned dials” on his watches. These early technological advances helped establish the reputation for quality and performance that the company enjoys to this day.

After barely surviving the horrors of the French Revolution, Vacheron Constantin became one of the first watchmakers to export. First in France and Italy, and later, especially in North America, the company enjoyed success in the early 19th century among nouveau riche industrialists and aristocrats who sought craftsmanship, exclusivity, and elegance in timepieces. The company’s brand slogan, “Do better if you can, and it always is” was first used in 1819 and is still used today.

Vacheron Constantin was the first manufacturer to perfect the production of standardized movements in “Calibers”. The Geneva Art Society awarded the Company the Gold Medal in 1844 for inventing the groundbreaking “pantographic device”, an innovation that further separated Vacheron Constantin from competing production technology. In 1885, the Company introduced parts made using novel non-magnetic technology, including movement components made of palladium and gold.

In 1906 the first Company-owned store was opened on the Quai de I’lle and the boutique continues to operate in the same location to this day. During World War I, the Great Depression, and World War II, the company struggled but managed to stay solvent by catering to fashionistas with stunning new designs and style cues. Following the conclusion of the fighting in Europe in 1945, the Company immediately began marketing new strategies and products to regain hegemony.

Then the “Heritage” model was introduced. This is one of the most famous, exclusive and collectible watches in the world. The “Patrimony” was the thinnest watch in the world, measuring just 5.25mm thick.

The “Kallista” model was introduced in the 1970s. The “Kallista” is considered the most expensive and exclusive watch in the world. Initially sold for $5 million, it is now valued at $11 million. “Kallista” is enriched with 118 emerald-cut diamonds, requires 6,000 hours of work by a master watchmaker and 20 months of detailed embellishment by the best jewelers in Switzerland.

Today, after more than two and a half centuries of producing the world’s most desirable timepieces, Vacheron Constantin continues to enjoy great success and demand for the product far outstrips supply. The company, now a subsidiary of luxury goods powerhouse Richemont Group, makes just 20,000 pieces per year. Exclusive pieces are sold in 16 company-owned stores and less than 500 carefully selected luxury retailers in 80 countries. Vacheron Constantin watches have been worn by Napoleon Bonaparte, Pope Pius VI, Nicholas Sarkoszy, Harry Truman, Clark Gable, and the Duke of Windsor, just to name a few of the famous people known to wear this classic brand.

Any research done on the history of watchmakers will uncover a plethora of brands that have not survived competition, changing tastes, or technological advances. Vacheron Constantin not only survived, but flourished and became one of the few consumer products (think Ferrari, Dom Perignon, Brioni, Faberge, Chanel) to exist as category icons. When fashionable people look for the best quality and craftsmanship in watches, they immediately think of Vacheron Constantin.