Boat Anchoring: Proven Strategies and Tactics for Safety

There are many factors to consider before choosing and deploying your shore rig. Some of those considerations are described in this article. I have outlined this in phases for simplicity.

Phase 1- General Anchor Terms You Should Know:

Ground input: The general term applied to the anchoring of a ship (vessel)

amount: anchor line and chain

Scope: Anchor line length measured in units of water depth (8:1 ratio respectively) is recommended

Chain: A “U” shaped connector with a pin or bolt at the open end

Bitter finish: The last part of the line.

Have you noticed how many different styles of anchors there are? This can be especially confusing for the new surfer. Some of the styles available are: Fluke, Grapnel, Mushroom, Plow, and Navy. Newer anchors may be known by their manufacturers’ names, such as Danforth or Fortress.

There are so many variables and requirements for a proper ground tackle that it is impossible to really establish a firm set of rules. Factors to consider are the type and weight of the vessel, the characteristics of the seabed found locally, the average depth of water in the anchorage area, and the strength of the normal prevailing winds and currents. Unless the shore tackle can be depended on to hold it securely even when the boat is unattended, it is not suitable. The bottom line is that there are many variables.

Anchoring Know-How Phase 2:

With knowledge of general terms and anchor styles, we have decided on the anchor needed for our particular circumstance. The next thing is to figure out what the diameter and length of our line should be before attaching it to the chain and anchor. Most of us will use a 3/8″ or ½” line. We will use 3/8″ thread for boats up to 4000lbs and 1/2″ thread for boats up to 7000lbs.

A larger diameter line will be needed for heavier boats. We will need a length of line that allows us to have a radius of throw of at least 8:1 in the depth of the water that we usually anchor. Most of us will have a minimum of 100′ – 200′ of line for our main bow anchor. I recommend having a second, smaller anchor on board as well. Use it as a stern anchor or lunch hook.

Deploying two anchors will allow you to anchor on the beach in close proximity to other boats without your boat swinging towards your neighbors boat. Having the second anchor allows you to deploy a smaller, more manageable anchor while stopping for a quick bite to eat. This anchor must also have the same line and chain diameter as the main anchor with at least 100 feet of line.

Next, we determine the diameter and length of the anchor chain. The size and weight of your boat will be factors in this calculation of the chain between the anchor and the line. Why do we need chain? The chain acts as a dead weight to help set the anchor or dig into the bottom. There are different grades of chain, just to confuse us I think. Keeping the budget in mind, I use the Hot Dip Galvanized type as most of my boating is in salt water.

We need the right strength in our chain; ¼-inch chain has an approximate breaking strength of 5,000 lbs. while 5/16-inch chain has a breaking strength of around 7,600 pounds. You guessed it, the thicker the chain, the stronger it is. I use six feet of 5/16′ chain with my anchors on my 4,300 pound boat.

Now we need to butt or have been butted an eye with a thimble at one end of our line. Through the thimble, we need to attach the chain by installing a shackle, and then at the other end of the chain, we use another shackle to attach the anchor.

Don’t forget to insert a piece of stainless steel wire through the shackle pin head and around the shaft, twisting the ends together. This prevents the shackle pin from coming off over time. Now it’s time to splice back the other end of the line to prevent unraveling or fraying. Of course, you can check out pre-spliced ​​Anchor/Chain Rode packages at your local boating store to save time and labor.

Anchoring Know-How Phase 3:

I remember a nice summer afternoon at a local beach. My friend and I were about 17 years old and had just hit the beach in my 16 foot Starcraft aluminum boat. Bert was in the bow ready to drop the anchor and I was at the helm. I looked aft to check the engine for a split second and when I looked forward I saw Bert sitting in about two feet of water with the anchor in one hand and looking bewildered.

We had successfully anchored that ship many times in the past. This time, however, she forgot rule number one: keep your feet off the line. She had gotten tangled up in the line and when he threw the anchor overboard, Bert went with her! This was good for a laugh since he wasn’t hurt. It is best to lower the anchor, not drop it.

Another experience was across the same beach. With a six-boat raft passing through the weekend, I questioned the size of the anchor my friend had deployed. Six boats rafted together is a lot of tonnage and in an area that normally has a nine foot tide and a 4-6 knot current. I recommended deploying a stern anchor along with the bow anchor. I knew this would prevent the rafting boats from rocking during the tide change.

My suggestion was dismissed as overkill and I was informed that this is the way they’ve done things for years without a problem. Early the next morning we all woke up to a terrible thud. They almost knocked us out of our bunks. You guessed it; the anchor was raised during the change of tide and when the boat rocked, it raised the anchor which did not reset.

We drifted until the bow of my boat touched the stern anchor of another raft of boats which rocked us into that raft. However, this prevented us from going any further, which would have been hitting a Bertrams raft! Our insurance companies would not have been happy. I don’t know how, but there were no injuries or damage, just one more lesson learned.

Bonus tip: Deploy two anchors when spending the night in tidal waters.

Summary of key points:

o Practice your anchoring skills in less congested areas when possible

o Keep your lines neat and coiled

o Lower the anchor carefully, do not drop it

o KEEP feet away from the anchor line

o Tie off the bitter end to prevent the anchor and rod from falling overboard

o Replace worn dipstick